Zorki 1 - Transformation of an Ugly Duckling - The Shutter

When browsing online listings for Zorki, Fed, or Leica cameras, it's common for sellers to mention the state of the shutter curtains. They may note if there are any tears or holes, but that's not the only issue to be aware of. Shutter curtains are typically made of fabric with one side coated in rubber, which has a limited lifespan and degrades over time. As the rubber ages, it can become stiff and crack, even if there are no visible holes or tears. Some people assume that increasing the spring tension will fix the problem, but this isn't the case. Increasing the tension on worn or weak shutter curtains can actually increase the risk of tearing. Instead of fixing the problem, it can make it worse.

In the case of my Zorki, the shutter curtains didn't have any holes, but they were stiff. You can see this in the image below.

There are several options to consider when replacing shutter curtains. Some sellers offer prefabricated replacement curtains that can be easily installed, while others may choose to fabricate their own using shutter curtain material like that from Aki Asahi.

To save time and ensure a proper fit, it's important to mark the starting positions of the curtains and tapes on the drum and spindle. If your new curtains have the same dimensions as the old ones, you could start right there. The accompanying photo is from a subsequent project and serves as a valuable lesson learned from my own mistakes.

Interestingly, the length of shutter curtains and tapes varies from camera to camera. If you can't get exact measurements, you can assume 100mm for all tapes, as well as 100mm and 75mm for the curtains. In my case, the curtains measured 96mm and 72mm in length. As for the width of the curtains, it is usually 32mm, but early models had a width of 30mm.

I refined some steps initially shown on Aki Asahi's webpage.

In order to keep the exact measures I use graph paper. Along with the curtain material, I bought Super X glue. I cut longer pieces of shutter curtain material than required. To start, I glue the latch to one end of the curtain material. First, I position the material on the graph paper and secure it with electrical tape. This helps to maintain the alignment of the latch during gluing. I apply glue to 15mm of the material and let it harden for a few minutes before placing the latch along the edge of the graph.

The sentence seems to contain a minor error. It should be "After gluing the latch approximately 15 mm from the edge, I fold the remaining material around it. I use baking paper to protect the rest of the curtain from excess glue. The curtain material should wrap precisely around the latch and be as flat as possible, but you should not stretch it. To achieve this, I place a flat cardboard on top of the latch and the material, and press it with a clamp.

I waited 24 hours before proceeding further. The Super X glue is quite strong, and should hold well. Therefore, sewing the curtain may be considered an optional step. However, I decided to go the extra mile. 

It's not easy to keep a straight line with even spaces between the stitches without a sewing machine. To help myself while sewing, I used white chalk. Additionally, I cut a strip of graph paper and marked 3mm distances between the stitches.For sewing, I used polyester thread.

I found the Super X glue very pleasant to work with. Once pressed out of the tube it can be distributed on the material and doesn't pour outside the edges. It doesn't cure immediately allowing for some adjustments when required. Any excess can be wiped easily. It requires approximately 24 hours cure completely and once it does it remains flexible as rubber.

Once the curtains are ready, they can be cut to the desirable length.  It's the length of the longer curtain that's crucial for the whole setup. The shorter one just needs to be attached to the curtain roller.

Attaching the tapes to the latches is a straightforward process. I apply some glue at at the one end of the tape and wrap it around the end of the latch. I do not glue the latch to the tape. Once the glue has cured, I sew the connection. Here I used red thread for this step in my process.

Before cutting the tapes to the required length, I apply a small amount of glue to the place I want to cut. This prevents loose threads, which may be quite annoying at further stages of the process.

Before attaching the tapes and the closing curtain to the drum, I first attach a narrow strip of self-adhesive tape. This allows me to make any necessary adjustments before the final attachment. However, I wait to do this until after the rollers and spindle have been reinserted into the shutter crate.

Before cutting the tapes to the required length, I apply a small amount of glue to the place I want to cut. This prevents loose threads, which may be quite annoying at further stages of the process.

Before gluing the tapes and the closing curtain to the drum, I attach a narrow piece of self-adhesive tape. This allows me to make any necessary corrections before the final attachment. This is however done once the rollers and the spindle are reinserted to the shutter crate.

Ensure that you place the spindle in the shutter crate correctly. Although diagrams can be helpful, they may only provide an approximate guide. Additionally, there may be variations of the drum with different-sized holes. To help with proper installation, I have attached photos below. When inserted correctly, you should not be able to turn the spindle to the left, and you should ensure that the bottom gear in the shutter crate reaches its locking position.

Drum position by Vishnevsky

Zorki 1c

Zorki 1a

This is how it should look with the top cover on.

After installing the top cover, you can check if both curtains are parallel to the edge of the film chamber and to each other. 

If some corrections are required, you can adjust the tape length by sticking a needle. This will help to find out the proper position. 

According to the manuals, the gap between two curtains should be 3mm at 1/500th of a second, and 36mm at 1/30th of a second. Achieving the correct gap required several attempts, including trying different combinations and holding the curtains by hand while releasing the shutter to check the gap. I also had to reattach the tapes and the closing curtain several times before finally finding the right setup.